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Finally, A Show About Garment Sewing! Sandra Betzina is the Best!

Thursday, April 26, 2007

Sewing Project - How To Sew A Patternless Easy Elegant Caftan

Sewing Project - Caftans

Sewing Friends:

Don't you just love the glamourous look of an elegant caftan? Whether you wear them in the privacy of your home or when you are entertaining dinner guests or attending a lavish party or going to the beach or pool, caftans can be worn for almost any occasion.

Caftans can be any length, but usually they are just above floor length.

Sew them out of any fabric that isn't too stiff. Embroidered sheers, organzas, challis, soft cottons, silks, etc. are all good choices. How about using that beautiful batik you bought and haven't made up yet?

You can use either 36 or 45 inch wide fabric. The wider fabric will create longer sleeves.

How to cut your caftan
  • Measure the distance from your shoulder to the floor
  • Multiply that number by two.
  • Fold the fabric evenly
  • The folded edge will be the shoulder
  • Cut out the neckline (use any basic pattern for a guide front and back)
  • Cut an 8 inch slit down the center front
  • Cut narrow bias binding to go around the neckline (1-1/4 inch wide bias works well)

How to sew your caftan

  • Bind the neck edge including the 8 inch slit down the center front with the narrow bias binding
  • Measure down from the shoulder fold about 10 inches and mark on both sides. This will be the openings for your arms.
  • Sew the side seams from the bottom up to this mark.
  • You may decide that you want slits on either side of the caftan. If so, mark where you want the slit to end and stitch the side seam in between the slit and the arm opening.
  • Press and stitch the hem in the arm openings and the slits.
  • Press and stitch the bottom hem.
Decorate your caftan

You may decide to do some decorative stitching or embroidery up the slits and around the neckline or you can add some fancy decorative trim.

Make a belt for your caftan

If you would like a belt to wear with the caftan, try a drapery cord with tassels on the ends or make a "Magic Sash" like the one in my Sewing Project Tips Sewing Blog.

Another idea is to make a few bias tubes and braid them into a belt to fit around the waist and let the individual tubes hang free on both ends . . .perhaps adding a large bead on the very ends of the tubes.

You are the designer. Have fun designing your caftan.

This is a fun beginner sewing project. Try it! Use up some of that fabric in your stash that you can't decide what to do with it. Give caftans as gifts! Who wouldn't love lounging around in an elegant caftan! No one needs to know that it took so little time and effort to make such a glamourous garment.

To Your Sewing Success,

Marian

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    Finally, A Show About Garment Sewing! Sandra Betzina is the Best!

    Wednesday, April 25, 2007

    What No One Tells You About Attaching Patch Pockets

    Sewing Tips - Patch Pockets

    Sewing Friends:

    For some reason, no one ever seems to tell you the whole story about attaching patch pockets. So many times, patch pockets are a dead give away that a garment is "homemade". Why? Because the pockets look "pinched", "pulled' or "puckered" on the garment. You know the look. Well now, I am going to tell you "the rest of the story!"

    Most of you carefully mark the pocket placement and dutifully follow the sewing guidelines. However, there is something else that you should know before you sew on your pockets. It is a simple tip. It just makes sense!

    Here is the scenario:
    • When you lay out your flat garment sewing pattern and lay your pocket pattern over it, everything lines up and matches perfectly.
    • You cut out your garment and pocket and mark everything just like the pattern.
    • Then you sew the flat pocket on the flat garment according to your markings.
    • Now, you put on the garment and the pocket looks "pulled".

      What happened?
    The Problem

    Your body is round, not flat! You aren't a flat table!

    The Solution

    Here is the sewing tip that will help you avoid "pinched looking" or "puckered" patch pockets.
    • Pin the pocket at the pocket placement mark closest to the center of the garment.
    • Do not pin the other end yet.
    • Either put the garment on your body or over a pressing ham or cushion to simulate a body curve.
    • While laying over this curve, pin the other end of the pocket in place. It most likely will fall short of the original mark that you made for the pocket placement. That's because the pocket is going over a curve.
    • Pin securely around the pocket to hold it to the garment while it is over the curve.
    • Take the garment to your sewing machine and stitch the pocket as pinned.
    • Now, when you wear the garment, the pocket is relaxed and no longer looks "pulled" or "pinched" or "homemade".

    Keep this sewing tip in mind any time you are attaching a layer on top of another in a garment that is worn on a curved body. Think about this! The top layer gets shorter when it goes over a curve. It just makes sense!

    How To Sew A Self-Lined Patch Pocket

    Find detailed instructions on how to sew a self-lined patch pocket on my Sewing Project Tips Sewing Blog. Go to: How to sew self-lined patch pockets

    Now you know how to sew a lined patch pocket and "the rest of the story" on how to attach a pocket to a garment to create perfect pockets. Enjoy!

    To Your Sewing Success,

    Marian

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    Friday, April 20, 2007

    Have Fun Learning How To Sew On A Button

    Sewing Tips

    Sewing Friends:

    Everyone should at least know how to sew on a button . . . even the guys should learn these basic sewing skills!

    Watch these videos and read my sewing tips and you will be sew successful sewing on buttons.
    Learning to sew is not the "chore" it once was considered to be. Nowadays, it is all about having fun and celebrating your creative spirit. Enjoy discovering your new skills.

    Watch this video to learn how to sew a button on a shirt.

    For a more serious version of how to sew a button on a jacket, see this video

    These videos cover the basics of sewing on a button, however I would add a few sewing tips to make your sewing project even better.

    Here are my sewing tips for sewing on buttons:

    1. To thread a needle, put the end of the thread that came off the spool first into the eye of the needle. This helps keep the thread from tangling.

    2. Run your sewing thread through beeswax and press it with a warm iron to melt the wax into the thread. This strengthens your thread and also helps to keep it from tangling. You can find sewing beeswax in the notions department.

    3. Make a quilter's knot at the end of the thread. Here are some good instructions to learn how to make a quilter's knot.
    • Thread a needle.
    • Hold the needle horizontally with your left thumb and index finger (assuming you are right-handed) with the point towards your right hand. The thread should just dangle down.
    • Pick up the end of the thread with your right hand and grip it with your left thumb together with the needle. You should now have a loop of thread hanging from your left hand.
    • With your right hand, grab the thread near the end (where you are holding it) and wrap it around the needle from the base to the point about three times.
    • Add the wrapped thread to your left thumb/index finger grip.
    • Hold on to the needle with your right hand while you let your left hand slide the wrapped thread off the needle to the left and continue down the length of the thread and form a knot at the end.
    • Tug at the thread end to secure the knot.

    4. Try using dental floss or fine fishing line to sew on your metal buttons. Metal buttons sometimes cut through the thread in time and have a habit of falling off easily. Dental floss and fishing line hold up better for these buttons. You can use a permanent marker to color the dental floss if you like.

    5. When sewing a button on a jacket, to help create the thread shank, instead of trying to hold the button out from the fabric while you are sewing, try this tip.

    Place a toothpick on top of the button and take your stitches over the toothpick. After you finish stitching through the holes, remove the toothpick.

    Now, wind your needle and thread around the threads under the button to create a good thread shank and secure your knot.

    Here's to no more missing buttons or tangled threads. It just makes sense to sew those buttons and save that favorite garment!

    Buttons are not only functional, but can be decorative as well. Now that you know how to sew on a button, have fun decorating your sewing projects with buttons.

    Be sure and check your sewing manual to learn how to sew on a button by machine. It is quick and easy! It just makes sense!

    To Your Sewing Success,

    Marian

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    Wednesday, April 18, 2007

    Sewing Projects - Sewing Designer Handbags And Purses

    Free Sewing Projects - Sewing Handbags and Purses

    Sewing Friends:

    Sewing handbags and purses seems to continue to be really popular. Some of my sewing friends have made so many that I call them "bag ladies"!

    There are so many free sewing projects online for bags and purses of all sort and size. You really should be able to find something that you like without ever buying a sewing pattern. Use up some of your fabric stash. Don't forget that home dec fabrics make great handbags, too.

    Several of you have suggested bags and purses that you particularly like. We will try to highlight those so that we can share them with others.

    Be sure to see the free sewing project from the Kwik Sew Pattern Company on How To Sew An Easy Clutch Purse on my Sewing Project Tips Sewing Blog. I like this one for special occasions.

    If you have a favorite bag, please share it with us.

    Sew a designer handbag or purse to give as a gift. You don't have to worry about "fitting" . It is really fun, easy sewing that you can complete in a short time.

    Here are a few recommended bags plus lots of other free sewing projects on the Janome Sewing Machine website for you to check out.

    So much to sew - so little time! I hear this often. I like to turn it around to say, "Sew a little at a time - and you will sew much!"

    How many bags do you need? How about as many as you can give away plus one for yourself?

    Enjoy sewing handbags and purses! It just makes sense!

    To Your Sewing Success,

    Marian

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    Thursday, April 12, 2007

    Sewing Shawl Collars - How To Notch It To Sew A More Youthful Look

    Sewing Technique - How To Sew Shawl Collars

    Sewing Friends:

    Let's face it! Shawl collars in general have a matronly look. They remind us of our old great grandmother's dresses. No one wants to deliberately look "matronly". . ."motherly" is OK, but not "matronly"!

    So, what can we do to change the shawl collar to a more flattering youthful look? It really is very easy to do. We need to break the long plain line of the shawl collar with a notch. If you do that, you will see a world of difference in the appearance of the shawl collar.

    You can do this technique on tops, dresses, jackets, coats . . . wherever you have a shawl collar. A simple pattern change will change the shawl collar into a notched collar that has much more pizazz.

    How to add a notch when sewing a shawl collar.
    • Cut everything as per the pattern instructions.
    • Apply the interfacing to the facing.
    • Draw and cut a paper or cardboard triangle pattern of the finished size of the notch that you want to add to your shawl collar. You can copy this from another garment if you like.
    • Determine where on the shawl collar that you want the notch to be.
    • Find that place on the interfaced shawl collar. Lay the notch pattern down and draw it on the interfacing. Do not cut out the notch area. Just mark it.
    NOTE: You might also want to mark your shawl collar interfacing pattern piece now so that you have it for future reference.

    Pin and stitch the shawl collar facings to the garment
    • Pin edges of shawl collar and garment together so that they meet.
    • With interfacing up at the machine, stitch the facing to the garment.
    • Follow the drawn lines around the notch area.
    • Shorten the stitch length to 18-20 stitches per inch about 1/2 inch before the outside corner of the notch.
    • Take one or two stitches across the corner.
    • Continue with shorter stitches to the inside point of the notch.
    • Again, take one or two stitches across the inside point.
    • Continue with short stitches to sew the last corner the same as the first.
    • Return to regular stitching about 1/2 inch beyond the last point.

    Trim and press the seams

    • Trim and grade or stagger the seam allowances and points.
    • Clip the inside point up to the stitching.
    • Press seams open.
    • Turn facing to the inside.
    • You may wish to understitch the garment along the longer edges.
    • Press with seams on the edge with the iron on the garment, not on the facing.
    • If using a heavier or stiff fabric, you may need to flatten the edge with a pounding block.
    • Topstitch if desired

    Hope you enjoy your flattering notched shawl collars!

    It just makes sense!

    To Your Sewing Success,

    Marian

    Sewing Technique - How To Sew Shawl Collars

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    Thursday, April 05, 2007

    How To Sew A Narrow Curved Hem

    Sewing Technique - Sew A Narrow Curved Hem

    Sewing Friends:

    Whether you are trying to hem a circular skirt or a curved shirt tail hem, it should not have angles or tucks in the hem. Try this easy sewing technique for better curves.

    Here are the steps to sew a narrow curved hem.
    • Set the sewing machine for a regular stitch.
    • Stitch through a single layer of fabric around the bottom of the hem 1/4 inch away from the bottom edge.
    • Press up this 1/4 inch so that the stitches just slightly roll to the inside of the hem.
    • Now, turn the hem up 1/4 inch again.
    • Press the hem with steam. This will help ease in the hem to remove any extra fullness.
    • Stitch the hem in place

    Try it. It just makes sense.

    To Your Sewing Success,

    Marian

    Sewing Technique - Sew A Curved Hem - Circular Skirt - Shirttail Hem

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