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Finally, A Show About Garment Sewing! Sandra Betzina is the Best!

Thursday, May 25, 2006

How To Sew Lined Shoe Bags For Golf, Tennis, Bowling, Gym, Dance or Any Other Drawstring Bag

Hi Sewing Friends:

I've been trying to come up with something for a Fathers Day gift for my honey.

I decided to make him some golf shoe bags. I gave him one several years ago (It was a sample for a class I was teaching) and he used it to carry around his golf balls. He still uses it. He always wanted 2 more for his shoes, but I never seemed to get around to it. So, now, I will finally finish the job. I made the first bag out of ultra suede. . .quite elegant really, especially for golf balls!

Thought I would pass along the instructions in case you might want to sew some drawstring shoe bags too. It is quick and easy and can be used for a lot of things besides shoes and golf balls.

To Your Sewing Success,

Marian

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How To Sew Lined Shoe Bags For Golf, Tennis, Bowling, Gym, Dance or Any Other Drawstring Bag

- by Marian Lewis

©2006 Marian Lewis - All Rights Reserved

1st Step To Sewing Success

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Sewing shoe bags for the guys or gals in your life is a great gift idea. No matter what sport or hobby they enjoy or where they travel. . .far away or to the gym, shoe bags or drawstring bags come in handy.


The how to sew sewing instructions are for a lined drawstring shoe bag.

You are the designer. You can decide the purpose, fabric, design and size of your drawstring bag.


Here are some suggestions.


Fabrics

Use whatever fabric suits your fancy. About 1/2 yard of fabric makes one shoe bag.

Sturdier fabrics like denim, canvas, slipcover fabric, fake suede, corduroy, etc. work well for sturdier shoes.

Fine fabrics like velour, velvet, cottons, flannels, etc. are good for dressier shoes.

Think about satin or silk for lingerie bags or jewelry bags. Or use mesh or terry for the beach or laundry bags.

Lining is optional. But, if you line the bags, choose a compatible lining fabric that won't tear easily especially for the sturdier shoes. Sometimes the same fabric is the best lining.

The instructions here are for a lined drawstring shoe bag.

You may want to use washable fabrics so you can launder the bags later.

Preshrink all fabrics before cutting.


Drawstrings

Use a pair of 36 inch long decorative shoe laces or leather laces for each bag or heavy cord or sew your own fabric or fake suede drawstrings. Ribbon also works.


Sizes

Sew a test bag to see if the dimensions are right for you.

Cut one bag with the following suggested dimensions. Place the shoe inside and check to see if it fits well. Add or subtract from the length or width to adjust for whatever shoe or item that you have.


Suggested Sizes

For 2 golf shoe bags, cut 4 pieces of fabric 20 inches long and 11 inches wide. Cut 4 pieces of lining 19 inches long and 10-1/2 inches wide.

Note: Cut an extra drawstring bag for a golf ball bag.

Two bowling shoes will fit into one shoe bag. Cut 2 pieces of fabric 20 inches long and 11 inches wide. Cut 2 lining 19 inches long and 10-1/2 inches wide.

One bag may also hold 2 tennis shoes or 2 ladies dress shoes.

Gym shoes vary in size. For extra large or small shoes, measure around the shoe and adjust the size of the fabric plus seam allowances to accommodate the size of the shoe.


Decorate the Shoe Bag

Make the drawstring bag unique with a special design or emblem. Think about monogramming the bags or adding a sport motif applique or embroidery design prior to stitching. Place the design about 3 inches from the bottom in the center of one of the 20 x 11 pieces.


How To Sew Sewing Instructions

After you trim the bag, place 2 bag pieces right sides together.

Measure and make a mark 5 inches down from the top of the bag on both sides.

Stitch 1/2 inch seam around bag starting and stopping at this 5 inch mark. Do not back stitch. For the first and last inch, use short stitches.

Repeat stitching as above for the lining.

Press all seams open on both bag and the lining.

Press under 1/2 inch on the unstitched 5 inch bag side edges. Fuse or stitch to hold.

Do the same for the lining.

Turn the bag right side out.

Turn the lining right side out.

Machine stitch 1/2" at the bottom of the lining as if you were making a French seam. This creates a strong edge.

Turn the lining wrong side out.

Slip the lining down into the bag so that the top edge of the lining is 1/2 inch below the the top edge of the bag.

Fold the top edge of the front of the bag down 1/2 inch over the lining.

Press this fold to make a crease.

Now, bring the top folded pressed edge of the bag down to meet the side edges at the bottom of the opening.

Pin to hold and stitch close to this fold edge.

To make the casing, stitch 1" above the previous stitching.

Repeat for the back side of the bag.


Insert Drawstrings

Use a safety pin or bodkin to help slide the drawstrings through the casings.

Slide one drawstring through the casing of the bag back and front having ends
on the same side of the bag.

Insert the other drawstring starting at the other side of the bag, sliding through the casing of the bag back and front having ends on that side of the bag.

Tie the ends of the drawstrings together.

That completes the lined drawstring shoe bag.

Note: If the shoe bag is wide enough for two shoes, you may want to stitch up the center of the bag from the bottom up to (but do not include) the casing through all the layers to create separate compartments for each shoe to help keep them from scuffing.

Pin before stitching and test to see if there is enough room for the shoes. If not, you may want to increase the width of your shoe bag.

Everybody Needs A Bag For Something

Sew bags any size for anything and everything out of all sorts of fabric. Everybody needs a bag for something. Kids love treasure bags. Make big bags and little bags, wine bags, jewelry bags, laundry bags, toy bags, book bags, hand bags, Renaissance Faire pouch bags, shoe bags, lingerie bags, beach bags, bridal bags, etc.. Give drawstring bags to family and friends for Fathers' Day, birthday gifts, Christmas gifts, etc. Give some to your local nursing home for the seniors there. Enjoy sewing bags!

It just makes sense!

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End Of Article

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PS: If you enjoyed this article or have a comment, please do so here on my Sewing Blog.

Actually, you can check out most of my articles here. You might find something that interests you. I welcome your feedback :-)

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

If you have sewing related questions that you would like to have answered, ask them here or at:

=> http://1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/questionburning.html

I'll do my best to answer them for you.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Marian Lewis is a sewing instructor, author and creator of an amazing new fitting method for hard-to-fit sewing folks who want great fitting skirts and pants. In her mini-course ebook, she teaches step-by-step common sense techniques how to find out WHAT you really need, WHERE you really need it and HOW to apply that to a commercial sewing pattern.

Marian is also the author of many articles and other mini-course ebooks related to sewing highlighting, "It Doesn't LOOK Homemade"Sewing Techniques.

Copy and paste the link now to check out her website at:

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/

Discover Fitting And Sewing SecretsTo Achieve Sewing SuccessFor information on the mini-course ebook:

"Common Sense Fitting Method For Hard-To-Fit Sewing Folks Who Want Great Fitting Skirts And Pants"

Copy and paste the link:

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/fitting.html

For information on the mini-course ebook:

"Sew A Tee Pee And Accessories For Your Tribe Of Kids"

Copy and paste the link:

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/sewing.html

For information on the mini-course ebook:

"Classy Designer Straight Skirt"

Copy and paste the link:

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/sewing.html

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

**Attn: Ezine editors / Site owners **

Feel free to reprint this article in its entirety in your ezine, blog, autoresponder, or on your site so long as you leave all links in place, do not modify the content and include our resource box as listed above.

Please let us know if you use the article and where you put it so we can take a look. Thanks!Feel free to substitute your affiliate link in place of our link in the resource box.

Affiliate details are available here:

"1st Step To Sewing Success" Affiliate Program

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/affiliate.html

See more about sewing

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Finally, A Show About Garment Sewing! Sandra Betzina is the Best!

Monday, May 22, 2006

Sewing Techniques - How To Sew A Gusset

Hi Sewing Friends:

Sometimes I find some very good answers to your sewing questions right here on the web. So, instead of writing another article, I will refer you to a site or post the information here for you to read.

I hope they help you.

For those of you having problems sewing gussets, I thought I would post a link to this article by Ragnar Torfason. He has a historic clothing sewing site with a pretty good explanation of how to sew gussets. Go to the website:

Tempus' Sewing & Garb Accessories Weeb Site

See how Tempus Sews in Gussets

The most important sewing tips I can add on how to sew gussets is to reiterate what is in the article, i.e.;
  1. Interface the slash
  2. Reinforce the slash using very short stitches (18-20 per inch)
  3. Take a stitch or 2 across the "point"
  4. Cut right to the "point"
  5. Match the garment stitching line with the reinforcing stitching line on the gusset
  6. Stitch very carefully with short stitches
  7. Press well
If you have any questions, or a sewing related article or site that you would like to recommend, please let me know.

To Your Sewing Success,

Marian
Link
Finally, A Show About Garment Sewing! Sandra Betzina is the Best!

Thursday, May 18, 2006

Sew News Fitting Tips For Mature Figures Article In July 2006 Issue

Hi Sewing Friends:

It's May 18, 2006.

Today is the day the UPS man delivered my preview copy of the July issue of Sew News.
I have to tell you, I was really excited. To be published in a national magazine is a thrill for me.

There it was, on page 14, my name in print, as the author of "Make It Fit -The Senior Figure"

How cool!

My hope is that the information makes sense and helps someone. That would be even more cool!

When you get your copy of Sew News, I would love to know what you think of the article.
Please post your comments here on my blog. I would really appreciate it.

To Your Sewing Success,

Marian
Finally, A Show About Garment Sewing! Sandra Betzina is the Best!

Wednesday, May 17, 2006

How To Sew A Lined Tank Top

Sewing Success Blog - Sewing Blog

Hi Sewing Friends:

The college grandkids are here for the summer. WOW! They surely have a lot of "stuff". I think I'm the only grandmother in the world with a surf board under her bed. My sewing room is temporarily my grandson's bedroom. What sacrifices we make for grandchildren!

Needless to say, I'm a little behind on things sewing related. I'm busy cooking and doing laundry. But, I'm still thinking about all the sewing things I want to share with you.

One of the things on my list was "How To Sew A Lined Tank Top". I've had several requests for this sewing technique.

I don't particularly like the technique where the final step is joining the shoulders together. It always looks "lumpy" and unprofessional to me. Besides, that's exactly where everyone's eye goes when they "look you over". I much prefer to sew the shoulders first and work around everything else.

So, here are 2 methods you might try.

Let me know how you like them. Share some of your ideas . Comment here on my blog.

To Your Sewing Success,

Marian

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How To Sew A Lined Tank Top

- by Marian Lewis

©2006 Marian Lewis - All Rights Reserved

1st Step To Sewing Success

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Sewing projects like this one can be so much fun and save you so much money. Here are two different sewing methods on how to sew a lined tank top.

Reversible tank tops are so versatile. They are perfect to take when you travel. You get a 2 for 1 top if you use another color for the lining. You can even get 4 for 1 by using 4 different color fabrics. . . 2 colors for the 2 fronts and 2 colors for the 2 backs. This works great under suit jackets since only the front shows when you wear it. Test for show through first. It's a great way to use up a lot of your stash!

The necklines can even be different front and back if you like. Try sewing a v-neck front and a scoop neck back. If you have no darts for the bust, you can wear the top backwards for a different look.

Try both sewing techniques to see which one you like best.

Method I - Sew a Binding on The Neckline and Armholes

Directionally staystitch the necklines and armholes to help keep them from stretching.

That is, stitch 1/2" from the edge through a single layer of fabric from the shoulder to the center front and center back on the neckline.

Staystitch from the shoulder to the underarm on the armholes.

Staystitch the bottom edge of the tank 1/4" from the edge front and back on both layers.

Join Shoulder Seams

Lay a front and a back with 2 right sides together.

Stitch the shoulder seams from the neckline to the armhole.

Repeat for the lining layer.

Sandwich press the shoulder seams.

Press the seams open.

Trim the lining shoulder seams to 1/4"

Stitch Side Seams

Stitch the side seams from the bottom to the underarm on both layers.

Sandwich press the seams.

Press the seams open.

Trim the lining side seams to 1/4".

Try On To Check Fit

Before you sew the two layers together, try on the tank top to see if the neckline or the armholes gap. If they do, now is the time to fix it either with darts, easing or other neckline or armhole adjustments too involved to address here.

Sewing Tip: Use a fusible stay tape on necklines and armholes to help eliminate the gaposis problem.

Once you get the top to fit your body, make the same adjustments to the lining.

Put Tank Top and Lining Together

Lay the 2 wrong sides of the tank top and lining together.

Pin the shoulder seams one on top of the other to hold in place at the neckline and the shoulder point.

Line up and pin together at the underarms.

Pin center fronts and center backs together at the neckline

Pin the armholes together

Beginning at a shoulder seam, stitch the neckline 5/8" to 3/4" from the edge.

Trim off the seam allowance close to the stitching. This edge will be bound and will be the finished edge of the garment.

Stitch the armhole seams 5/8" to 3/4". Trim off the seam allowance close to the stitching.

Now the neckline and armhole edges are ready for binding.

Sewing Tip: You might like to try serging the edges with a decorative thread or look for a decorative purchased trim to bind them. You are the designer.

Cut Fabric Binding

For a fabric binding, cut matching or contrasting bias binding to go around the neckline and both armholes 4 times wider than you want the finished binding to be.

That is, if you want 3/8" finished binding, cut the bias 1-1/2" wide and the length you need it to be.

Test the width of bias on scraps of your garment and lining fabric (double layer) to make sure you have enough width for the "turn of the cloth".

Sew Binding

Sewing Tip: Use fusible thread in the bobbin of your sewing machine to sew the binding to the neckline and armholes.

Lay the right side of the binding against the right side of the tank top with the raw edges together.

At the beginning of the binding, fold back the raw end. Place this fold at one of the shoulder seams for the neckline. You may start the binding at the center back if you prefer, however, if you plan to wear the tank backwards, it may look better to have the binding end at one shoulder.

Place the fold to start the binding at the underarm for the armholes.

Stitch the binding as deep as you want it to be when finished. Example: 3/8". Slightly stretch the binding as you stitch a curve.

Overlap where you started the binding and trim off the excess. The folded edge of the binding will show when the binding is finished.

Turn the bias up over the garment edge, fold under and pin. Lightly press to fuse the binding to hold it in place. Either slipstitch the edge of the binding so the stitches won't show from either side or "stitch in the ditch" or "well stitch" on the right side with the stitches showing on the lining side.

Note: The fusible thread is not enough to hold the binding permanently. You must stitch it.

If you aren't going to wear the tank top inside out, just leave the raw edge of the binding on the inside and "stitch in the ditch". It eliminates bulk. Since it is bias, it won't fray.

Hemming Options:

Hem the two layers separately. Hem the outside layer first. Let it hang a while. Try on the garment and mark where the lining should be hemmed. Then hem the lining layer so that it doesn't show.

Note: If the garment is not reversible, hem the lining a little shorter than the garment. If the garment is reversible, you want both layers the same length.

Hand sew a small "swing tack" at the bottom of the side seams to keep both layers together.

Optional: You can stitch both layers together at the bottom and bind it, too.

Another Option: Or, bring the 2 right sides of the bottom of the garment and lining together and stitch leaving about a 4" opening near a side seam to turn the tank right side out. Slipstitch or fuse the opening closed.

Method II - Create a Center Back Seam For More Choices

This is another favorite sewing technique for sewing a lined tank top. This method requires either a center front or center back seam in the garment. It is the same technique often used for a reversible or lined vest.

If you don't want a plain seam line down the center of your tank, then turn it into a pleat or tucks or some other design element on the garment. Be sure to allow extra fabric for the center seam plus the pleat, pintucks, etc.

How To Add For An Inverted Pleat

Here is an example of how to add for an inverted pleat. This pleat folds toward the seam line and helps to hide it. You can add decorative or top stitching or trim, etc. to the pleat if desired. You are the designer. Do whatever suits your fancy. Get ideas from ready-to-wear.

For a 1" inverted pleat down the center back or center front of a tank top, you need to add double the pleat (2") plus a seam allowance (5/8"). That adds up to 2-5/8" total that you need to add to the center front or center back fold line in order to make a 5/8" seam and have a 1" pleat.

You might also like the seam exposed as the focal point of a box pleat and run a row of trim or buttons down the seam line. Just fold the pleat to create a box pleat instead of an inverted pleat.

How To Sew The Tank Top

Directionally staystitch the necklines and armholes on both layers to prevent stretching as specified in Method I.

Stitch the shoulder seams on both layers. Press and trim as in Method I.

Do NOT make the center seam. For our example, we will use a center back seam.

Put the 2 right sides together of the tank and the lining together

Stitch the armholes, trim and understitch. Use short stitches (18-20 per inch); trim to 1/8" and understitch.

For the neckline, beginning on the back about 2" before the shoulder seam, stitch around the neckline and stop 2" beyond the other shoulder seam.

Trim seam and understitch. Use short stitches to stitch a curve (18-20 per inch); trim to 1/8" and understitch.

Leave the back neckline unstitched until after you make the seam and pleat in the center back. It is fine for now.

Turn Right Side Out

Now, pull the split unstitched right and left backs through each shoulder to turn right side out.

Press the stitched neckline and armholes well with understitching up at the board.

Stitch Center Seam

Stitch the center seam at 5/8". Sandwich press. Press seam open.

Mark Pleat

With the face side up, mark fold lines 2" away from either side of the seam line. Bring those lines over to the seam line and press the pleat in place.

You can stitch 1" from the marked fold if desired.

Repeat for the lining.

Finish Back Neckline

Now, finish the back neckline. Stitch with short stitches, trim, understitch, press.

Shoulders, neckline, and armholes are finished.

Sew Side Seams

Lay the right sides together for both the garment and the lining.

Pin the underarm seams one on top of the other matching exactly.

Start at the bottom of the garment and stitch in a continuous seam up to the armhole, stop, walk your sewing machine over the pin, and keep stitching down the lining side seam.

Sandwich press the seam.

Press the seam open.

Do not trim this lining seam in case you need to let the garment out.

Turn the lining layer down inside the garment.

Finish The Bottom

Finish the bottom as described above with either separate hems, or. . .
Stitch the two layers together leaving an opening near a side seam and turn right side out.

Design Your Own Tank Style Garments

Change your necklines, add slits to the side, or lengthen the tank top pattern for tunic, knee length, or floor length. Just make sure to allow room for hip width plus ease.

Perfect the fit on your tank top sewing pattern. Use it to sew blouses, dresses, beach cover-ups, night gowns, vests and sleeveless jackets.

Sew a whole wardrobe using different fabrics like silk, lace, fleece, leather, suede, denim, upholstery fabrics, sheers, cottons, knits, quilted fabric, whatever you want.

Add decorative stitching, appliques, embroidery, fabric manipulation; try out all your sewing techniques, paints, etc.

Have fun designing your own unique tank wardrobe. They are quick and easy sewing projects.

It just makes sense!

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End Of Article

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

PS: If you enjoyed this article or have a comment, please do so here on my Sewing Blog.

Actually, you can check out most of my articles here. You might find something that interests you. I welcome your feedback :-)

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

If you have sewing related questions that you would like to have answered, ask them here or at:

=> http://1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/questionburning.html

I'll do my best to answer them for you.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Marian Lewis is a sewing instructor, author and creator of an amazing new fitting method for hard-to-fit sewing folks who want great fitting skirts and pants. In her mini-course ebook, she teaches step-by-step common sense techniques how to find out WHAT you really need, WHERE you really need it and HOW to apply that to a commercial sewing pattern.

Marian is also the author of many articles and other mini-course ebooks related to sewing highlighting, "It Doesn't LOOK Homemade"Sewing Techniques.

Copy and paste the link now to check out her website at:

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/

Discover Fitting And Sewing SecretsTo Achieve Sewing Success

For information on the mini-course ebook:

"Common Sense Fitting Method For Hard-To-Fit Sewing Folks Who Want Great Fitting Skirts And Pants"

Copy and paste the link:

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/fitting.html

For information on the mini-course ebook:

"Sew A Tee Pee And Accessories For Your Tribe Of Kids"

Copy and paste the link:

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/sewing.html

For information on the mini-course ebook:

"Classy Designer Straight Skirt"

Copy and paste the link:

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/sewing.html

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

**Attn: Ezine editors / Site owners **

Feel free to reprint this article in its entirety in your ezine, blog, autoresponder, or on your site so long as you leave all links in place, do not modify the content and include our resource box as listed above.

Please let us know if you use the article and where you put it so we can take a look. Thanks!Feel free to substitute your affiliate link in place of our link in the resource box.

Affiliate details are available here:

"1st Step To Sewing Success" Affiliate Program

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/affiliate.html

See more about sewing

Keywords: , , , , ,

Feed Shark
Finally, A Show About Garment Sewing! Sandra Betzina is the Best!

Sunday, May 14, 2006

How To Sew A Shopping Tote Bag

Hi Sewing Friends:

I did some shopping today and used my favorite fabric shopping tote bag to carry some things I was trying to match. While in the store, two ladies asked me where I got my "bag". Of course, I made it.

I promised them I would post the basic sewing instructions on my blog. So, here they are!

You can add your own creative touches.

Hope you enjoy making your own shopping tote bags, too!

It just makes sense!

To Your Sewing Success,

Marian Lewis

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How To Sew A Shopping Tote Bag

- by Marian Lewis

©2006 Marian Lewis - All Rights Reserved

1st Step To Sewing Success

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Here is a very useful simple sewing project that is fast and easy to do. It is my favorite fabric shopping tote bag.

I love my fabric shopping bags. I use them for all sorts of things besides carrying groceries.

Sew several for yourself to take to the super market and help the environment. Sew more to give as gifts to your friends. The kids can use them for toy bags when they go to Granma's house. They are great for traveling, too.

Use up some of your stash and make a few today! Give them to your favorite charity. They love them!

Fabric:

Use whatever fabric you want to use. Try cottons, upholstery fabrics, fake suede, leather, canvas, denim, etc. I prefer to use something washable.

1-1/4 yards of 45 inch wide fabric will make two (2) bags.

Preshrink and straighten the fabric.


Cutting Instructions:

Cut a panel 19-1/2 inches wide by 41 inches long for each bag.

Cut (preferably on the lengthwise grain) two (2) handles for each bag 4 inches wide by 17 inches long. It is easier to cut and sew one long strip 4 inches by 34 inches and then cut it in half.

Sewing Instructions:

Fold the bag panel in half and press a crease in the bottom.

Press a 1 inch hem in the top of the bag.

Fold the hem down again and press making a double hem.

Repeat for both front and back of the bag.

Let it cool and then open the hems back out.

NOTE: If you are applying pockets, appliques, embroidery, etc, to the bag, do it now before you sew the side seams.

Make sure hems are open and stitch 1/2 inch side seams to make the bag. (serge or sew).

Trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch and zigzag to finish the edges.

Press seams.

Turn down the double hem and stitch in place.

Press.

While pressing the hem, determine the center front and center back of the bag by folding so that side seams are lined up and press a light crease at the top of the bag. This will help you place the handles.

Make The Straps

Press a 4 inch wide strap piece in half to set a crease.

Open back out and bring the cut edges to the center on the pressed crease.

Press.

Now fold on the original crease and press again.

The cut edges are enclosed.

Edgestitch on both sides of the long 34 inch long strap.

Cut in half to 17 inches to make two strap handles.

Zigzag raw ends.

Mark and Attach the Strap Handles

At the bag hem, measure out both sides from the center front and center back of the bag about 1-3/4 inches and make a mark. This allows 3-1/2 inches between the handles.

Place the inside edge of the handle at this mark lining up the zigzagged edge of the handle with bottom of the bag hem. Pin in place.

Stitch a 1 inch square to attach the handles to the bag.

Box The Bottom Of The Bag

To box the bottom of the bag, turn it wrong side out.

Center a side seam on top of the crease at the bag bottom forming a triangle.

With the bag bottom crease on top centered over the side seam, measure down from the point 3-1/2 inches and mark.

Fold over the triangle lining up the point to the bag bottom crease and press a triangle.

Open the triangle back up and stitch on the folded press line (base of the triangle).

Repeat for the other side. This will form a 7 inch box in the bottom of the bag.

You can leave these triangles folded down into the bottom of the bag or you may trim them off and finish the edges with serged or zigzag stitches.

Support the Bottom (not really necessary)

Also, you may want to cover a piece of cardboard with your fabric to lay in the bottom of the bag for added support. This can be removed to launder the bag.

Cut the cardboard 7 inches wide x 11-1/2 inches long.

Cut the fabric a little larger.

Fuse/glue fabric to the cardboard.

Tip: Double the bag when the load is extra heavy. Make it double layered or simply place one bag inside the other when needed.

Enjoy Your Fabric Shopping Bag

Use it to tote whatever you want wherever you want.

Make the handles longer if you want to carry the bag over your shoulder.

Add your special trims, appliques, monogram, embroidery, paints, etc. to make the bag uniquely yours.

Add pockets inside and out in different sizes to hold your keys, wallet, etc.

You are the designer. Sew your own designer shopping bags.

It just makes sense!

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End Of Article

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

PS: If you enjoyed this article or have a comment, please do so here on my Sewing Blog.

Actually, you can check out most of my articles here. You might find something that interests you. I welcome your feedback :-)

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

If you have sewing related questions that you would like to have answered, ask them here or at:
=> http://1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/questionburning.html

I'll do my best to answer them for you.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Marian Lewis is a sewing instructor, author and creator of an amazing new fitting method for hard-to-fit sewing folks who want great fitting skirts and pants. In her mini-course ebook, she teaches step-by-step common sense techniques how to find out WHAT you really need, WHERE you really need it and HOW to apply that to a commercial sewing pattern.

Marian is also the author of many articles and other mini-course ebooks related to sewing highlighting, "It Doesn't LOOK Homemade"Sewing Techniques.

Copy and paste the link now to check out her website at:

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/

Discover Fitting And Sewing SecretsTo Achieve Sewing Success

For information on the mini-course ebook:

"Common Sense Fitting Method For Hard-To-Fit Sewing Folks Who Want Great Fitting Skirts And Pants"

Copy and paste the link:

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/fitting.html

For information on the mini-course ebook:

"Sew A Tee Pee And Accessories For Your Tribe Of Kids"

Copy and paste the link:

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/sewing.html

For information on the mini-course ebook:

"Classy Designer Straight Skirt"

Copy and paste the link:

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/sewing.html

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**Attn: Ezine editors / Site owners **

Feel free to reprint this article in its entirety in your ezine, blog, autoresponder, or on your site so long as you leave all links in place, do not modify the content and include our resource box as listed above.

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Saturday, May 06, 2006

Sewing Tips - Buttons and Bows for Kids

Sewing Success Blog - The Sewing Blog

Hi Sewing Friends:

Here is a novel idea on how to sew and create your own decorative buttons and bows on kids' clothes.

Sewing for kids is a lot of fun. It is a great way to try new ideas and sewing techniques, too. If you don't have your own special child to sew for, then sew things for kids and give them to charity. It is still a gift of love and the kids really appreciate something made just for them.

Try the buttons and bows for kids. It really is cute and the kids love it!

Please share your ideas and comments with us.

To Your Sewing Success,

Marian

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Sewing Tips - Buttons and Bows for Kids

- by Marian Lewis

©2006 Marian Lewis - All Rights Reserved

1st Step To Sewing Success

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Bows are really popular on kids garments, but they don't hold up well in the laundry. So, here is an idea to sew some easy detachable bows.

This idea grew into a delightful sewing project that involved the kids, too. Kids have great imaginations and a lot of really good creative ideas on what they want to wear.

I call these Velcro Button Bows/Flowers/Appliques. The kids call them "Stick-em Buttons". They think these buttons are really "cool". They love to change the "tops" of the buttons.

Here is how to sew "Stick-em Buttons."

Sew the buttons at the shoulders of jumpers or overalls, on pockets or randomly scattered on jeans, tee shirts, skirts or other garments. The buttons can be functional or purely decorative.

Use up those old buttons in your button box. Paint the rim of the button with nail polish or craft paints if you like. The large, flat buttons are perfect for this sewing project. Buttons about 7/8 inch or larger work well.

First, sew a button onto the garment. Use double thread. Run it through beeswax and press it to melt the wax into the thread. This strengthens the thread and keeps it from tangling.

After sewing on the button, apply a drop of clear nail polish or Fray Check to the button threads to keep them secure.

Prepare the Velcro

Using a coin, draw a circle the size of the button onto some Velcro or use sticky Velcro circles. If the button has a rim, draw the Velcro circle to fit inside the button rim.

Glue the soft side of a Velcro circle to the top of the button that you stitched to the garment.

Next, sew some bows, ribbon flowers or small appliques or use pom poms, etc. For boys, use small appliques of their favorite animals, cars, toys, etc.

Fuse, glue or sew the hook side of a Velcro circle to the underside of the bow/flower/applique, etc.

Button the button and stick the bow, etc. to the top of the button.

Make several different kinds of bows in different colors or whatever you like to have a selection of things to attach to your "Stick-em Buttons".

Remove the bows to launder the garment. The loop side of the Velcro doesn't stick to everything else in the wash.

The kids will have fun with their "Stick-em Buttons!"

It just makes sense!

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End Of Article

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PS: If you enjoyed this article or have a comment, please do so here on my Sewing Blog.

Actually, you can check out most of my articles here. You might find something that interests you. I welcome your feedback :-)

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If you have sewing related questions that you would like to have answered, ask them here or at:

=> http://1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/questionburning.html

I'll do my best to answer them for you.

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Marian Lewis is a sewing instructor, author and creator of an amazing new fitting method for hard-to-fit sewing folks who want great fitting skirts and pants. In her mini-course ebook, she teaches step-by-step common sense techniques how to find out WHAT you really need, WHERE you really need it and HOW to apply that to a commercial sewing pattern.

Marian is also the author of many articles and other mini-course ebooks related to sewing highlighting, "It Doesn't LOOK Homemade"Sewing Techniques.Copy and paste the link now to check out her website at:

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/

Discover Fitting And Sewing SecretsTo Achieve Sewing SuccessFor information on the mini-course ebook:

"Common Sense Fitting Method For Hard-To-Fit Sewing Folks Who Want Great Fitting Skirts And Pants"

Copy and paste the link:

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/fitting.html

For information on the mini-course ebook:

"Sew A Tee Pee And Accessories For Your Tribe Of Kids"

Copy and paste the link:

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/sewing.html

For information on the mini-course ebook:

"Classy Designer Straight Skirt"Copy and paste the link:

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/sewing.html

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**Attn: Ezine editors / Site owners **

Feel free to reprint this article in its entirety in your ezine, blog, autoresponder, or on your site so long as you leave all links in place, do not modify the content and include our resource box as listed above.

Please let us know if you use the article and where you put it so we can take a look. Thanks!Feel free to substitute your affiliate link in place of our link in the resource box.

Affiliate details are available here:

"1st Step To Sewing Success" Affiliate Program

=> http://www.1ststeptosewingsuccess.com/affiliate.html

See more about sewing

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