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Finally, A Show About Garment Sewing! Sandra Betzina is the Best!

Thursday, July 19, 2007

Classic Sewing Patterns - Kwik Sew 2498 - Misses Camisoles

Classic Sewing Pattern
Kwik Sew 2498 - Misses Camisoles
Sewing Friends:

Kwik Sew 2498 is another classic sewing pattern for you. You will want to sew a dozen of these for some basic camisoles and tank tops in your wardrobe for both dress up and play.


The pattern is designed for lightweight woven fabrics such as cotton types, challis, rayon, crepe, tissue faille, crepe de chine, charmeuse, silk, silk types and handkerchief linen.

The sizes range from XS to XL with bust sizes from 31-1/2 to 45 inches.

There are 4 styles offered with unlimited possibilities on what you can create with them.

  1. View A is a pull-over tank top. The neckline and armholes are finished with a simple narrow hem. This is a great beginner sewing project.
  2. View B is a cropped tank top with button closure on the front. Put the button closure on the back if you like.
  3. View C has bust darts, wide shoulder straps, facing at the top edge and button closure on the back. I have this in a lightweight linen type fabric to match a gored skirt. It looks like a sundress.
  4. View D is a pull-over style with spaghetti straps, bust darts, V-shaped neckline and a facing at the top edge. This is gorgeous in silk charmeuese. Line it for real luxury.

The seam allowances are 1/4" so there is no extra trimming required. . .a real time saver . . .making this a very fast, easy sewing project to serge or sew.

The pattern has a slight waist shaping that is nice to have also.

Sewing Tips and Suggestions

  • Mix and match design features of the different styles.
  • Sew the side seams on Views A and B before you finish the armholes for a more professional look.
  • On View C, change the button closure to a zipper one or eliminate it all together and wear the top as a pull-over.
  • Criss-cross the straps in the back for another look or exchange straps between Views C and D.
  • Add slits to the sides.
  • Square the neckline of the tank or make a V-neck. Raise it or lower it to your personal taste.
  • Create facings for the tank top. All-in-one neckline and armhole would be best.
  • Instead of facings, cut two full tops, sew them together and make a reversible top or a fully lined top especially the View D in a silk charmeuse.
  • Bind the edges with self fabric or trim.
  • Add your embroidery designs, appliques, unique trims, decorative stitching, whatever you can dream up. Copy ready-to-wear.
  • How about lengthening these tops into tunics, dresses or floor length. Use them as beach cover-ups, night-gowns or whatever. Add a belt or an elastic casing waist for a lovely dress or just leave it straight or add some waistline darts. Make sure you have enough width for your hips plus ease. Add a lovely shrug or shawl and you are ready to party!
  • Views A and B do not have the bust dart. You can add it for a more flattering look and better fit especially if you are a B cup or more. Copy the dart from View D and add that amount of extra length to the bottom of the front of Views A and B. Or, see the sewing video, Make A Muslin and learn how to add a bust dart to a sewing pattern.
  • Curve the bottom edges of the tops so you eliminate that straight around hemmed look.
  • Some designers curve the front even lower than the back. Test it and see what looks best on you.
  • Maybe you would like View B as a vest. You might want to cut it a little larger if you plan to wear it over something else.

Again, I suggest that you directionally staystitch all necklines and armholes to help keep from distorting them during construction.

Another sewing tip is to add clear elastic to the necklines and armholes of the tank top to help keep the curves from gapping.

  • Measure the paper pattern minus the seam allowances to get the measurement required for the elastic.
  • Give the clear elastic a few good stretches before you cut it. Let it relax and then cut exactly what you need.
  • Zigzag or serge it to the wrong side of the armhole or neckline edge. Turn the edge under and topstitch.

Use Pellon or something similar to make permanent patterns of your favorite tops to keep forever.

Look beyond what you see on the pattern envelope. You are the designer!

You will have so much fun sewing camis. They take so little time, effort and fabric. Think of how much money you will save just by making these simple tops that fit you!

It just makes sense!

To Your Sewing Success,

Marian

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Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Sewing Techniques - Staystitching

Staystitching

Sewing Friends:

When I use a pattern, I rarely read the sewing instruction guidesheet. I just sew using my common sense techniques. I usually tell my students to throw away the guidesheets, too. Often, the guidesheets just get the students into trouble. I would rather that they didn't even read them, let alone follow them.

There is an order to sewing and many of the same techniques apply from garment to garment. Learn good techniques and use them for all your sewing to achieve greater sewing success.

In a recent email, someone asked me about "staystitching". I had mentioned it in something I wrote and she didn't see it in her pattern sewing instructions. She wanted to know if it was necessary and why.

That question made me go look at my newest patterns. I was amazed at what I found!

What happened to the staystitching instructions on sewing pattern guidesheets? They were in some of the older patterns!

I suppose the sewing pattern companies think that by eliminating some of the instructions, the pattern purchaser will think their garments are easier to sew and thus, they will sell more patterns.

You know what I mean. They promote fewer pattern pieces, 1,2, 3 easy steps and Bam! You have a garment. Quick, fast and easy are the words of the day for everything in our lives!

I am teaching some sewing classes and am very disappointed that the sewing pattern instruction sheet does not show or say anything about staystitching.

Are all sewing pattern companies eliminating this important step now or is it just true for a few?

I don't buy a lot of patterns any more, so I need your input to let me know what you are seeing in your new pattern selections from various pattern companies.

Is staystitching missing from all pattern company guidesheets now? What else is missing?

My current classes are working with Kwik Sew patterns as that is what the store owner carries. I am finding some well designed patterns there with some pretty good, easy to follow instructions, but no staystitching. I do have some other issues, but I will address those later.

I am a firm believer in staystitching to help prevent the garment from stretching during construction.

If you want to know what staystitching is or where you should use it and why, see this article, called, "Staystitching," from the Home Sewing Association Sewing Guidelines:

You will often hear staystitching referred to as "directional staystitching". That is just another term for it. "Directional" means that is done "with the grain" of the fabric. All staystitching should be done directionally.

Directional staystitching (row of stitching through one layer of fabric 1/2" from the edge) and directional stitching (row of stitching joining 2 layers of fabric 5/8" from the edge) are both done "with the grain."

You should use directional cutting, stitching and pressing when constructing a garment to end up with the most professional look when it is finished. It really does make a difference between that "homemade look" and a "custom made garment."

When undecided about which way you should cut, stitch, or press, an easy sewing rule to remember is that you should go from the wide to the narrow. Then you are cutting, stitching, and pressing "with the grain."

Another helpful hint to help you know which direction to cut, sew or press is:

When you are going "with the grain," the fabric threads lay down along the edge when you run your fingers along it. When you go "against the grain", the threads poke out.

If you aren't staystitching your garments now, I suggest that you start. You will see a definite difference that will help you achieve sewing success in sewing higher quality-looking clothing that will have that "custom made" look because it is well constructed and fits you well.

Aim for good quality construction sewing techniques in everything you sew. Sewing with these "custom" techniques is no more difficult or time consuming that sewing the "homemade look." Why not use the best?

Work on getting a good fit, add good sewing techniques and get ready for the compliments! You will love hearing, "You made that? Wow! It doesn't look homemade!" You tell them, it's not "homemade." It is "custom made". . . by your personal designer - you!

Start staystitching today!

It just makes sense!

To Your Sewing Success,

Marian

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Sewing Techniques - Staystitching


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