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Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Classic Sewing Patterns - Kwik Sew 2952 - Misses Shirt

Classic Sewing Patterns
Kwik Sew 2952 - Misses Shirt Pattern

Hi Sewing Friends:

Here is a classic sewing pattern I recommend that you add to your wardrobe. It is basic misses shirt that you can sew with ease. It is Kwik Sew 2952.


This Misses blouse has bust darts (Hooray!), collar and optional pocket. View A has long sleeves with cuffs. View B has short sleeves. View C has side hemline slits and short sleeves.

It is designed for lightweight woven fabrics with suggested fabrics: cotton, cotton types, chambray, shirtings, silk like fabrics, satin, challis and linen.

I can see it out of a lot of other fabrics, too. How about silk organza, or other silks, lace or suede like fabrics or even a lightweight wool?

I've checked a number of patterns for a good basic shirt and so far, this is a winner for me. This one will go into my "Core Wardrobe" group.

I love to wear these shirts as a shirt/jacket here in Florida. It helps ward off the air conditioning chill plus it covers up a multitude of sins while dividing my figure when I wear the shirt open.

The Good Points About Kwik Sew 2952

  • Bust darts
  • 1/4" seam allowances
  • Back shoulder cut longer than front shoulder
  • Under collar cut smaller than upper collar
  • Five sizes available from XS to XL in same envelope fitting bust sizes 31-1/2" to 45"
  • Three style choices with endless possibilities to expand the design
  • Cut similar to ready to wear shirts

Design Possibilities

The possibilities for this shirt is endless. Just think about it. Once you get this shirt to fit you, you have the beginning of an unbelievable number of different styles you can create with very little effort.
  • Not only can you turn it into a casual jacket, but how about a dress or a robe. Just lengthen it. Make sure you have enough room over your hips and go for it.
  • Make it collarless or add a mandarin collar.
  • Make a vest. Eliminate the collar and sleeves, cut it down the front on the center front line, change the neckline to a V if you like and bind all the edges.
  • Take this vest, leave the sleeves on and make a gorgeous lace jacket using the scalloped edge of the lace to finish the edges of the sleeves and the jacket.
  • Eliminate the collar, scoop the neck, cut the center front on a fold and you have a pull-over top.
  • Curve the bottom up at the sides for a shirt-tail look for a more flattering look around you hips.
  • Cut it across the back, add seam allowances and make a yoke any shape you want it.
  • Change the sleeve styles to any thing you can dream up. Maybe you want them to bell at the bottom.
  • I prefer 3/4 sleeves for a lot of my shirts. They say it is a more youthful look as the forearm is the last to go! Three quarter sleeves hide the ugly upper/under arm and wrinkled elbows on we older women.
  • Create a turn back cuff with a slit for a little flair.
  • Want a round collar? Round the points.
  • Add more buttons closer together for a more quality look.
  • Take in the waist about 5/8" on each side to add more shaping. Taper back out to your regular side seam top and bottom.
  • Add waist darts or tucks front and/or back to create a more fitted look.
  • Add belt loops and a belt and shoulder epaulets for a safari look.
  • Change the design of the pockets. Add welt pockets or inseam pockets.
  • How about using your heirloom sewing techniques?
  • Or cut the pattern pieces apart and create a "patch work" shirt using all your sewing machine stitches or embroidery designs.
Don't forget when you cut the pattern apart to add seam allowances to the pieces so you can sew them back together again.

Seam Allowances

Besides the bust darts, another great feature of this pattern is that it has 1/4" seam allowances already. You don't have to trim anything. It is already to serge or sew and go.

Make sure you make a note on your pattern that it has 1/4" seams and not 5/8". Also, put notes on your garment pieces to remind you of the 1/4" seam allowances when you go to stitch the garment together.

Instruction Improvements

Here are a few suggestions I would make to improve the instructions.

Staystitching

I believe in directional staystitching necklines to prevent stretching while you are working with the garment. This should be done before anything else

Set the machine for regular stitch and sew the neckline from the neck/shoulder point to the center front and center back on both fronts and on the back pieces. Staystitch the facing from the neck/shoulder point to the center front.

Remember that you only have a 1/4" seam allowance. So staystitch just barely inside the 1/4" seam line.

Staystitching Plus

The back shoulder is 1/4" wider than the front shoulder on the pattern. That's great! The back should be wider than the front. You round out in the back. That 1/4" of ease helps to accommodate that curve.

To make the back fit the front without stretching the front, ease the back with staystitching plus.

Start at the neck/shoulder point and stitch to the shoulder/arm point while holding your finger behind the presser foot to "bunch up" the fabric while you stitch.

The little "pleats" will come out very easily, so immediately put the front and back shoulders together and stitch the shoulder seam from the neck/shoulder point to the arm/shoulder point with a 1/4" seam.

Pressing Tips

Sandwich press the shoulder seams and then press them over a cushion or pressing ham to help mold the shape of the shoulder.

Also press the bust darts over a pressing ham. Don't press beyond the point of the dart when pressing a dart. The dart is there to create shape where you need it.

Remember The Sewing Rules

Never sew more than 2 layers of fabric together at one time.

Click the link to read more about this sewing rule.

Additional Sewing Tip To Make Your Sewing Easier

See this sewing tip to help you match up all your sewing pattern pieces faster and more accurately as you sew your garment. I posted this on my Sewing Project Tips Sewing Blog.
You can read the entry here. . . . .

Kwik Sew 2952 is a well designed pattern and the instructions are relatively easy to follow. Remember to always cut and stitch accurately.

It might help if you compare the pattern to a ready-to-wear shirt that fits you. Now, make the pattern fit your shape, add your special touches and have fun with it. Copy ready-to-wear ideas. You are the designer!

Let me know how you liked this pattern and what you did with it.

Do you like my comments and suggestions for using the pattern?

Try it! It just makes sense!

To Your Sewing Success,

Marian

PS: I just finished a cotton shirt as a sample for my sewing classes and also made one up in silk that feels so luxurious.

PPS: Sew his and her matching shirts. See my Sewing Project Tips Sewing Blog for: Sewing Pattern - Men's Sport Shirt

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1 Comments:

Blogger Raymond said...

Just when I was wondering what to do during my winter break, I bumped into your post. I honestly believe this classic sewing pattern will be perfect to try on my mom's new SINGER Inspiration 4210. I am thinking of a military green color shirt that is more men's tailoring than sweet and romantic. To it, I'll use some of my eco-friendly swing tags I have from Nation Bright (http://www.nationbright.com.hk/) that I know will look great. If the results are good, I'll post a picture of it here.

4:05 AM  

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